VIE FERRATE - PROGRESSION AND SAFETY

classic ferrate “type The Dolomites”: historic mountain routes, longe approaches, remarkable altitude gain and length, more than half-day to cover the routes

sporting ferrate “type French”: low altitude routes, often short and very exposed, with some athletic moves, Tyrolese traverses, and monkey bridges hanging in the void

- less risk of trauma in case of fall

- more comfortable (hang up, clothing)

- light rucksack

- with heavy rucksack pass the longe of the dissipator in a carabiner that connects with a spare rope the rucksack shoulder-straps

- not necessary even in case of heavy rucksack

- essential for kids until around 8 years old

- with heavy rucksack

- dissipater connected just to the lower part

- longe passed in a carabiner on the chest

- both carabineers on the cable

- safer

- more time to hook and unhook the carabineers

- just one carabiner on the cable

- one of the two branches must be free, otherwise the dissipation will be cancelled

- more break risk in case of fall

- dissipators in the stores are too static

- decrease the friction eliminating the latch of the last hole

- directly with the dissipater rope + an 8 knot

- quick-link on the harness service ring + elastic

- sling sewed-up with two “bocche di lupo” knots on the harness service ring

- not! sleeves

- self-locking

- with a pressure system on the back

- twist lock

- locked with elastic or knot

- not! carabineers with double or triple safety or with bet locking

- CE homologated helmet

- gloves

- short longe with locked carabiner

- roped party equipment

- full length rope

- spare rope for self-locking or Ropeman

- HMS carabiner or belay device

- sling ring

- 2 or 3 quickdraws

- safety distances: don’t occupy one cable stretch in two or more persons

- push on the legs and don’t traction on the arms

- rest point on feet

- one hand on the cable and the other one on the holds

- the dissipater branches should not hang below the climber

- the branches should be hold on the forearm or with the hand

- anticipate the change of the longe beyond the piton

- horizontal exposed stretch: hook short longe to the cable

- vertical stretch: hook short longe to the piton to execute the carabiner change in suspension

- steps or ladders: one carabiner hooked to the cable and the other to the rungs

- simultaneous progression : alternate stretches where everybody proceeds simultaneously with short rope pitches

- the rope (dynamic) is an energy dissipator: it is not essential that everybody use the dissipator

- stretch rope among all the members

- each one uses the own dissipator (just 1 branch) or just the roped-party leader

- the roped-party is composed starting from the last one

- from the roped-party to the second proportionate to the distance between pitons (not superior to 6/7 meters)

- between the members 3/4 meters

- for kids 2 meters

- roped-party last member: an 8 knot, long strand as longe with carabiner of ferrata

- intermediate members: with spacer buttonhole, the buttonhole that comes out from the burin as longe

- roped-party leading: rope made off in a sack, self-locking on the harness ring service, dissipator with inserted a HMS carabiner with “half barcaiolo” knot or “barcaiolo” knot on the rope that goes to the partners, service longe (daisy chain”

simultaneous progression: the roped-party leader fixes the rope length in a way to be in a span of the cable towards the valley from the second, “barcaiolo” knot in the HMS carabiner

multi pitches progression: the roped-party leader climbs fast, hooks his longe in the piton’s ring and recuperate the rope in the “half barcaiolo” knot until the second hooks his carabiner above the piton, stops the whole roped-party and starts again for the following stretch

horizontal progression: the roped-party leader can use some quickdraws to hook to the traverse pitons, each member first hooks the longe beyond the piton and then changes the rope in the quickdraw